For centuries, cashmere has been transformed into yarn, fabrics, and clothing, eventually reaching the West, where it became a hallmark of luxury and a sign of elevated status among noblewomen.
Nowadays it’s more widely available and it’s certainly more affordable, with countries such as China, Mongolia, and Afghanistan standing as the leading producers.
If you’re a vegan concerned about animal cruelty, you’ll be disappointed to know that cashmere is not considered vegan because it’s sourced from goats, namely cashmere and pashmina goats.
But what exactly is cashmere, and is there cruelty involved in its production, and what is the impact on the environment? Let’s both figure it all out.
What Is Cashmere, Exactly?
Cashmere, derived from the Cashmere goat (known scientifically as the capra hircus langier), is a natural protein-based fiber whose quality is gauged by its length, fineness, and hue.
These special goats have a dual-layered coat: a rougher external layer and a delicate, plush internal layer, which provides added warmth in the cold months.
According to the U.S. Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, authentic cashmere wool originates from this inner layer, representing only a minor portion of the goat’s total fleece. As spring approaches, this coat naturally sheds, marking the ideal time for collection. While it’s possible to shear the entire goat, doing so muddles the fine and rough fibers. Hence, premium cashmere is typically combed by hand, selectively gathering the inner layer’s soft fibers. Once the precious inner layer is secured, the remaining external fleece is often sheared for non-clothing uses.
As highlighted by Encyclopedia Britannica, creating a single sweater requires the yield from 4 to 6 goats (sheared annually), while a more substantial overcoat demands the fleece from 30 to 40 goats.
Once perceived as a luxury item, cashmere’s price has diminished, paralleled by a soaring demand. This surge has overwhelmed suppliers, impacting environmental sustainability, fiber quality, and the livelihoods of herding communities. As it stands, the existing supply falls short of catering to the escalating demand without repercussions.
Why Isn’t Cashmere Considered Vegan?
The reason is quite simple; because it’s extracted from an animal, cashmere is not suitable for vegans. The same goes for any other product that is derived from animals.
As you might know, the generally accepted definition of veganism is that one ought to live while excluding, as far as is possible and practicable, all forms of exploitation of, and cruelty to, animals for food, clothing, or any other purpose.
According to this definition, cashmere is not vegan, especially when we take into consideration the cruelty involved in its production.
Is Cashmere Actually Cruel?
Although the process of removing wool is different from fur removal, which often involves skinning, it doesn’t guarantee that it’s cruelty-free.
In fact, a recent news article from the New York Post reveals that most luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Burberry, and Prada, buy their cashmere from Mongolian farms that effectively torture the goats that produce the pricey fabric.
Some of these brands promote their products as sustainably sourced, contradicting the abusive practices that PETA found in its hidden-camera investigation.
Here are some of the things reported in the investigation:
- Cashmere goats were immobilized by tying them down by their horns and hooves, painfully stretching out their bodies. Workers used sharp metal combs to extract their fleece, a process that could last up to an hour, causing the animals to scream in pain.
- Some goats had injuries like bleeding, and others were discovered dead. PETA reported finding cashmere pieces with skin still attached.
- Young male goats were castrated without any pain medication. This involved cutting their scrotums open and manually removing their testicles.
- Baby goats were found dead due to neglect during the harsh Mongolian winters.
- Goats were typically denied veterinary care. As cashmere production decreases, they are taken to slaughterhouses. There, they are subjected to brutal killing methods like having their heads struck with hammers and their throats slit.
While there exists an industry-standard certification system by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) for ethical cashmere production, there is no government oversight or sanction for violations.
Khanbogd Cashmere has a silver certification from the SFA, but PETA’s findings suggest these certifications are not indicative of humane practices.
This investigation was conducted in Mongolia, but there’s nothing to convince me that China is any different— it surely isn’t.
What Are The Environmental Challenges?
The production of cashmere, while central to various economies and traditions, does come with its environmental concerns.
For starters, these goats have a voracious appetite. According to the NRDC, they consume more than 10% of their body weight daily in roughage. This is compounded by their dietary habits, which differ from animals like sheep.
As highlighted by WWF, goats not only feed on a broader array of plant species, but they also forage intensely, often consuming the entirety of a plant down to its root. This aggressive feeding behavior can lead to the complete destruction of plants.
Moreover, the anatomy of the goats adds another layer to the challenge. Their hooves are particularly invasive, piercing the ground and damaging the topsoil along with the intricate grass root systems. This impedes the regrowth of grass, gradually rendering the land barren.
Regions such as China and Mongolia, pivotal in cashmere production, have faced the brunt of these environmental repercussions. Much of their verdant grasslands have undergone desertification, a process that strips the land of its fertility. In fact, escalating desertification has been a precursor to devastating dust storms in China—storms so intense that their effects are felt globally.
The United Nations Development Program provided a startling insight, revealing that a staggering 90% of Mongolia consists of fragile drylands, teetering on the edge of complete desertification.
But the environmental concerns don’t stop there. Livestock, including cashmere goats, contribute significantly to global methane emissions. This is primarily through enteric fermentation, a natural digestive process where livestock releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas, much like what’s observed in cows. This accelerates the greenhouse effect and, subsequently, climate change.
Furthermore, the massive quantities of manure produced, along with other toxins, can percolate into the soil, degrading its quality. The toxins might also find their way to water bodies, leading to contamination. This often results in eutrophication, a phenomenon where water bodies get inundated with nutrients, disrupting aquatic ecosystems.
Essentially, as demand increases, so does the potential for environmental problems.
What Are The Vegan-Friendly Alternatives to Cashmere?
Finding vegan-friendly alternatives to cashmere is not the easiest thing to do, especially because cashmere has unique properties.
However, there are a few fabrics that are claimed to work as an alternative to cashmere.
Bamboo Cashmere Alternatives
Though bamboo-derived cashmere rivals the cost of premium cashmere, it brings with it the benefits of being hypoallergenic and easily hand-washable. Its carbon footprint is also perceived to be minimal.
Brands like Ettitude fashion loungewear and bedding from this innovative material. Meanwhile, Kokun uniquely combines authentic cashmere with bamboo in their sweater range.
Soy-Based Fabrics
Though the concept of promoting it as “vegan cashmere” is relatively novel, soy fabric itself has been around for a while. The residual soybean pulp from tofu processing is transformed into a fabric renowned for its softness, durability, and machine-wash capability. This method repurposes waste, thereby making an eco-friendly statement.
Brands like KD New York and the French-originated Lo Neel are key players in the soy-based cashmere market.
Calotropis Innovations
Hailing from Asia is the milkweed variant, Calotropis. Faborg harnesses this plant’s potential, deriving fibers from its stems and pods. When combined with organic cotton, the result is a unique, cashmere-like fabric named Weganool. An environmentally considerate touch is added by reusing water from the fiber processes for natural dyeing. Infantium Victoria has pioneered products made from this distinct material.
The Viscose Debate
Viscose, often known as rayon, stems from cellulosic fibers. It sometimes gets mixed with synthetic elements like polyester and polyamide to emulate a cashmere feel. A drawback is its lack of full biodegradability, and these synthetic additions amplify its carbon footprint.
Yet, Apparis, a brand utilizing this blend, takes commendable steps in labor fairness, waste reduction, and organic dye usage. The luxury brand niLuu opts for the eco-friendly cellulose-derived fiber cupro, keeping synthetics at bay. While Tencel and Lyocell fabrics may not directly compete as cashmere substitutes, their inherent softness and sustainable nature make them worthy contenders in the textile industry.
What’s The Bottom Line?
The bottom line is that cashmere is not vegan because it’s ultimately sourced from goats, often in a way that is cruel and exploitative.
In addition, there are real environmental concerns with cashmere production, especially when you factor in a rise in demand.
But although you may not be able to purchase cashmere as a vegan, you can always settle for alternatives that seek to reproduce the same qualities of cashmere.
